Welcome to week 2 of the Study Of Corners crochet along! Lets discover our next C2C style crochet stitch and the next square of our blankets.

Keep reading for our week 2 pattern but if you haven’t heard much about this crochet along before, then check out this blog post here which will tell you what to expect.

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For week 2 we’re making our first bottom corner square which we’re going to make with the C2C Alpine stitch. To my eye this stitch has an unexpected look as the stitches don’t look like they’re tracking across the square in the direction you think they should.

This square is fairly easy to make, but the sizing could be a challenge for this one. You will want to keep your gauging square handy so you can keep an eye on how your Alpine square is turning out as it is easy for this one to run on the large size.

For this square you’ll need a 5mm hook – this is the hook size I used for the whole pattern. I used Caron Simply Soft in the shade Plum Wine. But you can use any aran or worsted weight yarn of your choice.

I used 242m / 265yds of yarn with my gauge of 5 rows of dc and 15 stitches in 10cm.

If you’d rather skip the ads and get an expansion pack alongside each week’s square, you can grab this pattern on Ravelry for £5 here. It’s released on the same weekly schedule as here, just with the extras and none of the clutter.

(And if you’re the type who collects every pattern I release – this one included – my Pattern Pass gets you the lot, including everything I publish in future, for a one-off £49.99.)

Week Two Of The Study Of Corners

Click here for the left hand video

Abbreviations
All abbreviations are in US terms

• Ch = chain
• St = stitch
• Dc = double crochet
• Dc3tog = double crochet 3 together

A note about turning chains: in the pattern instructions I state to make a dc turning chain. I use a stacked or alternate turning chain, but you could also make a ch2 as your turning chain. The choice is yours about what type of turning chain you would like to use. I have a video here which shows you the different type of turning chains you can use.

You can follow the written instructions below, or follow along with the videos.

For your yarn you will need 242 metres / 265 yards of Colour C – you can find all the yarn information for the CAL here.

Start by making a foundation chain of 4.

Row 1. In the 4th ch from your hook make 2dc (your turning ch counts as a stitch) – 3dc

Row 2. Turn and ch1. Make a sc in the first st. Make a sc in the next st then make a sc in the last st – 3 st

We won’t be adding any increase stitches in the sc rows as they are not going to count as a row. We will only be counting the dc rows when working out how many rows we have made.

Row 3. Turn and ch1. Make a dc turning ch in the first st, then make 2 dc also in the first st.  

Make a fpdc around the dc 2 rows below (the middle of your 3 st in row 1), then finish the row by making 3dc in the last st – 7st

Row 4. Turn and ch1. Make a sc in the first st, make a sc in next st. Finish the row by making a sc in the last st – 7st

Row 5. Turn and ch1. Make a dc turning ch in the first st, then make 2 dc also in the first st. *Make a dc in the next st, then make a fpdc around the st 2 rows below*. Repeat between *and* until you have 2 st left. Then make a dc in the next st and finish the row by making 3dc in the last st – 11st

Row 6. Turn and ch1. Make a sc in the first st, make a sc in each st across. Finish the row by making a sc in the last st – 11st

Row 7. Turn and ch1. Make a dc turning ch in the first st, then make 2 dc also in the first st. *Make a fpdc around the next st, then make a dc in the next st*. Repeat between *and* until you have 2 st left. Then make a dc in the next st and finish the row by making 3dc in the last st – 15st

Row 8. Turn and ch1. Make a sc in the first st, make a sc in each st across. Finish the row by making a sc in the last st – 15st

At this point check the size against your gauging square. Your piece should roughly match up with row 4 of your gauging square. If it’s too big then you need a tighter tension on your single crochet row, or use a smaller hook size to make the sc stitches.

If this isn’t working then see if your piece lines up with row 6 of your gauging square – if this fits then make just 28 rows of the increase before starting your decrease.

• Still having sizing issues? Come on over to the Facebook group and I will help you get it worked out.
• Want to switch it for a different stitch? Pick one from the 5 squares in the expansion pack which is available in the Ravelry download here or inside my Pattern Pass here

Row 9. Turn and ch1. Make a dc turning ch in the first st, then make 2 dc also in the first st. *Make a dc in the next st, then make a fpdc around the next st*. Repeat between *and* until you have 2 st left. Then make a dc in the next st and finish the row by making 3dc in the last st – 19st

Rows 10 – 36. Repeat rows 6 – 9. You will add 4 stitches on every odd numbered row, and maintain your stitch count on every even numbered row. 

Row 36 will be a repeat of row 8 and will have 71 st.

Before you start the decrease, check the size of your square against the gauging square. Because of that single crochet row, your square could become too large if you have a loose tension when making single crochet stitches. If your square is just a few of centimetres larger, then don’t worry about it, there is lots of give in the border stitches so everything will still fit together fine. If you need to, undo your square back to row 28, if this matches your gauging square size, start the decrease after this row.

The Decrease

Now we start the decrease

You will now lose 4 st on every odd numbered row, and maintain your st count on every even numbered row.

Row 37. Turn and ch1. Make a dc3tog over the first 3 stitches with the 3rd being a fpdc.  

*Make a dc in the next st followed by a fpdc around the next st*. Repeat between *and* until you have 4 st left. Make a dc in the next st then finish the row by making a dc3tog over each of the last 3 st with the 1st being a fpdc – 67st

Row 38. Turn and ch1. Make a sc in the first st, make a sc in each st across. Finish the row by making a sc in the last st – 67st

Row 39. Turn and ch1. Make a dc3tog over the first 3 stitches with the 2nd part of the st being a fpdc

*Make a fpdc in the next st followed by a dc around the next st*. Repeat between *and* until you have 4 st left. 

Then finish the row by making a fpdc around the next st and then make a dc3tog over each of the last 3st, with the 2nd part of the st being a fpdc – 63st

Row 40. Turn and ch1. Make a sc in the first st, make a sc in each st across. Finish the row by making a sc in the last st – 63st

Rows 41 – 72. Repeat rows 37 – 40. Row 72 will have 3 st.

Row 73. Turn and ch1. Make a dc3tog over the last 3 stitches.

You can now cut off and weave in your ends, and then we will add a C2C border around 2 sides of our square next week.

You can also find all the links to each part of the CAL on this page here, which will be updated each time a new part of the pattern is released.

Want next week’s square sent straight to your inbox? Sign up for CAL alerts here and you’ll never have to go hunting for the next post.

Click here for the pattern for week 3

Loved this square? The Ravelry pattern gives you the same CAL ad-free with an expansion pack each week for £5.

Come on over to our Facebook group, Froggity Frogs Ribbit and Stitch, and show us your squares, I would love to see what yarn you chose. Don’t forget that if you ever have any questions, post into the group and I’ll be there to answer.